Chinese Watch: Precarious Fifty Years

“In the old days, Wang Xietang was born before Yan and flew into the homes of ordinary people.” These two poems of the Tang Dynasty poet Liu Yuxi were written more than 1,000 years ago as a footnote for the changes in the Chinese watch brand in the past 50 years.

This year marks the 55th anniversary of the birth of the first domestically produced watch. If time flies back 50 years, do you know what a Shanghai brand watch means?

In the 1960s, the best car in the eyes of the Chinese was the "red flag". The best domestic watch was "Shanghai." All the people in the country are proud to wear Shanghai-branded watches: The child salutes the "Shanghai" watch on his father's wrist; the young man feels that he can have a Shanghai-branded watch and he will pay attention to the watch on his wrist when he shakes hands with you; Ms. Chang also used this to judge whether she would like to talk to you; the “Shanghai” watch has become a symbol of status. There was a popular saying at the time: If there was no Shanghai watch, no girl would marry you.

A "Roundhead" Shanghai brand watch has become a universal standard for measuring the quality of life in Chinese families at that time. The price of the all-steel mechanical “Shanghai” watch was RMB 120. It required an average worker to save food and use it for a year before he could afford it. Even so, it was still in short supply. Premier Zhou Enlai bought a Shanghai brand watch in 1962 and was still wearing it. Until his death in 1976, the staff was removed from the body and collected by the Chinese People’s Military Museum.

In that era when supplies were scarce, the Shanghai brand watch was undoubtedly a luxury consumer. But now, this "luxury Chinese brand" has become a memory. Nowadays, the wrists of high-end consumers have been occupied by foreign brand watches that have poured into the market. Young people who are not able to consume luxury brands have chosen mobile phones and other digital products instead of watches.

Starting from high imitation and walking on the street, when someone asks time, what we see is no longer roll up their sleeves to watch the watch. Most people will quickly pull out their cell phones to seek answers. With the rapid development of electronic products in the past 10 years, the watch seems to have become a dispensable wearer. However, if time is set back by 55 years, the watch is definitely a symbol of identity and wealth. It is a symbol of a person's face and head.

A friend told me that he lived in the late 1950s. An old doctor who had been sent by an expert lifted his wrist in front of the bed and pulsed him. He saw the old doctor wearing a yellow colored watch (now of course I know it was From the doctors, nurses and patients, the whole ward treated the watch in a horrified manner and interpreted several versions of the story. At that time, the nurse gave the patient a warm pulse in the morning, all of them carrying the double-ringed horseshoe watch.

In the 50's, buying a watch was an ideal life. Especially before the liberation, the watchmaking industry in China is still a blank, except that individual watch shops can be repaired. In large cities, it has always been a foreign trader selling watches, such as Shanghai's Hendry and Hendry's later [3.85 0.26%], which are the foundation of foreign businessmen. In the 1920s and 1930s, China established clock factories in Shandong and Shanghai, but they could only build bells and could not make watches. The watch still depends on imports. After the liberation, the state stipulated that the import form was Beijing as a port, and the China Department Stores Corporation distributed all over the country. The private merchants could not purchase the products themselves, so the watch became a legend and it was difficult to buy.

In order to solve the troubles of buying a watch for the Chinese people, on July 9, 1955, Shanghai started the trial production of a domestic watch with reference to an imported watch. At that time, the watch was drawn from Hengdali, Hengdeli, Zhongming, ZTE, Dongfang, Daguangming and other watches. Technicians and repair staff in shops and other factories participate in trial production tasks. The hardships of such ventures now seem to be similar to children's play. They made small hand-drilling machines, made tools themselves, modified the drive motors with electric fan heads, and rebuilt drill bits with embroidery needles, and manufactured watch shafts using parasols, sweater pins, bicycle bars, etc. Core, heat treatment with alcohol lamp. From July to the eve of National Day, more than 150 pieces of scattered and processed parts were all collected and assembled at the Shenchang Watch & Clock Shop in Nanjing Road. The 18 “Sirka” long three-needle, 17-diamond horse waterproof watches were modeled after Switzerland. This ended the history that China could not produce fine horse watches (the so-called "horse" is a key part of the watch, and "coarse horses" are made of steel wire, which was made before the liberation of the country, but was easily worn away and led to inaccurate timing." "It is made of diamonds or synthetic gems."

In September 1956, the second batch of 100 watches were branded as "Oriental Red" and "Peace". However, after testing, due to inconsistent sizes of parts copied by the participating units according to actual samples, there are only 12 qualified and genuine products, 58 defective products, and 30 waste products. The genuine 24-hour error is 120 seconds. Therefore, these watches are not listed. In 1957, Shanghai developed the first set of technology documents for the production of watches in China. Since then, a total of 14 batches of 3,076 watches have been produced. In March 1958, the A581 mechanical watch was officially put into production, and the registered trademark was changed to "Shanghai Card." This year, China’s first watch factory was also officially completed and was named the local state-owned Shanghai Watch Factory. In July of the same year, Shanghai brand watches were first listed for sale.

On the day of the test sale, the Shanghai Tri-Department Store of the test-marketing unit was just like a wedding. In the window display, samples of the A581 Shanghai-style watch were displayed, and their performance was introduced: 17 drills, steel backs, three long needles, waterproof, and springs were sufficient for walking. 36 hours, 24-hour error does not exceed 60 seconds, warranty for 2 years, each priced at 60 yuan. The first batch of 100 trials was sold out and snapped up once the door was opened. The unsuccessful customers register for pre-sales, and over 1,000 people register in the morning.

Just 57 days after the Shanghai Watch Factory was officially completed and put into production, the Beijing Watch Factory was completed on June 19, 1958. At the time, it had only 21 cadres and workers. It was drawn from a public-private partnership watch factory in Xuanwu District. In order to celebrate the 9th anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic of China, in the absence of factory buildings, second equipment, and three funds, by virtue of the experience of developing and producing alarm clocks, with the help of teachers and students from the Second Department of Beijing Polytechnic Institute, the “Great Rome” is being mapped in Switzerland. On the basis of the watch, after three months of hard work, the first batch of 17 watches was developed in September: 17 drills, junior needles, waterproof, shockproof, magnetically shielded, and all-steel case. The registered trademark was “Beijing. brand". However, unlike the Shanghai brand watch, the Beijing brand watch produced only 3,000 pieces at a time from 1958 to 1961, and the production was extremely small. I heard that it was not formally sold in the market. But according to watch collectors, this watch is now extremely rare and almost extinct.

Ms. Wang Shuqin was born in the 50s of the last century. She witnessed the glory days of domestic watch brands. "In the 1970s, a Beijing brand watch was priced at 120 yuan, and we earned more than 30 yuan a month." Wang Shuqin said that when marriage began to have "three big things," the woman asked the man to have three things. The earliest watch, bicycle, sewing machine, the watch will pick the Beijing brand, Shanghai brand.

"My wife had spent a year's money before sending me a piece." Wang Shuqin recalled that wearing a watch was not common at that time. Sometimes looking outside time depends on the big bell in a public place, or asking someone else. “When you ask people time, look at people wearing a Beijing brand or Shanghai brand watches can be envious. To buy it, they really have to le reed belts, bite their teeth.” With his own watch, Wang Shuqin likes to wind the watch feel. "Turning the little button, listening to the buzzing sound, I feel very comfortable." Wang Shuqin said, she was careful when wearing a watch every time, for fear that the silver-white track-like watch chain is broken.

Mr. Zhang, who has worked at the Beijing Watch Factory for nearly 10 years, said that the 1970s was the most brilliant time for Beijing brand watches. By the early 1980s, Beijing brand watches had swept the country. Beijing's brand name plus the brand identity of the Tianan [5.25 0.00%] door model was deeply imprinted in the hearts of people in that era.

“But by the mid-to-late 1980s, Hangzhou and Guangzhou had their own watches, which later flooded into Japanese quartz watches. The market suddenly became smaller and smaller.” Mr. Zhang recalled that at that time some street vendors had a glimpse. There is a watch on the sleeve and arm, and the watch is not a rare thing.

For no reason, with the large number of quartz watches and electronic watches flowing into the Chinese market, domestically produced mechanical watches have suffered a great impact. In 1997, the Beijing Watch Factory stopped production and nearly 1,000 employees were laid off. At the end of the 1990s, due to the technological leadership and brand advantages of Swiss watches, the domestic market for mechanical watches was seized in a large area, the state-owned watch companies were in a slump, 38 watch factories nationwide stopped production, and a large number of employees lost their jobs. In 2000, the "China's No. 1 Watch," once highly praised by thousands of people, was also unable to escape the fate of bankruptcy reform and was willing to do wedding dress for others. “On the verge of bankruptcy, all employees will have a living allowance of 300 yuan per person per month.” A retired employee of the former Shanghai watch factory clearly remembers that after the Chinese watch market turned badly, the Shanghai watch factory soon appeared in stock and the watch was sold out. No one wants more than a dozen yuan.

Nowadays, in Shanghai’s secluded Yulin Road, the oldest and most authentic Shanghai brand watches are still open, but the excitement of the past has long since been dispersed. The salesrooms in the light business are discounting, and the cheapest Shanghai brand mechanical watches are sold. Price 300 yuan. Data from the Shanghai Watch and Clock Industry Association shows that the current sales performance of Shanghai brand watches is less than 100,000 each year, which is far from the 6 million in the peak times. The number of workers has also been reduced from less than 6,000 at the peak to less than 900.

This old "noble" brand is no longer the scene.

Similarly, the once enviable “Toon” family-made watch, its best time was also washed without trace by the centuries-old history of the Swiss brand. Walking on the street today, many young people are already unfamiliar with the Beijing brand and Shanghai brand watches. Their awareness of watch brands was almost monopolized by Swiss watches, and it took Swiss people nearly 20 years to develop feelings for Swiss watches. In the process, they also defined the rules of the watch as a luxury. Handicrafts became culture, turning history into fashion and passed on from generation to generation.

The status quo earnestly looks forward to the recovery. After many years of instilling and nurturing, Chinese consumers who have been “successful” by the Swiss have begun to wear watches as jewelry. They are no longer only entangled in the precision and durability of the timer, and are no longer pursuing For ten years, only the benefits of wearing a watch, but one person has more than one watch, rotate to wear to show their self-cultivation.

In 2007, Omega Global President O Kehua said in an interview with the media, "In the past three years, the export of Swiss watches to China has doubled, and Omega has accounted for about 25% of the domestic high-end watch market." In fact, Omega, famous for its tourbillon technology, is not unique to this technology. The Chinese Tourbillon watch independently developed by the Beijing Watch Factory in 1995 has complete intellectual property rights, but unfortunately, even if it is mastered, With technology, the market recovery of domestic watches still seems to be far behind. Proofs can be found on the famous commercial streets such as Shanghai Huaihai Road and Nanjing Road.

"The malls in these shopping malls are not willing to sell Shanghai's brand. All of them are international brands. Shanghai watch companies can only play in rural markets." A sales manager of the original Shanghai Watch Factory laments. According to reports, in order to maintain its business, several famous watch manufacturers in Shanghai are now turning to OEM, assembly and spare parts. According to data from the Shanghai Watch and Clock Industry Association, Shanghai watches sell 100,000 watches a year, but it can produce 2 million movements in a month. Most of the machines export, and each company’s production center’s revenue is much greater than the production’s. Income. The brand image and historical culture that domestic brands have accumulated for decades are gradually being discarded over time.

As the only watch listed company in China, FIYTA, although the "Millennium Light" diamond watch released at the end of 1999 hit a record of 10,1800 yuan in domestic watch auctions in Beijing, and was witnessed as a witness to the development of the Chinese watch industry by China. The Museum of History is a permanent collection, but this immature latecomer is still unable to continue the brilliance of his ancestors, because the success of a single product does not support the growth of independent high-end brands.

According to industry sources, except for a portion of Japanese brands and a small number of Swiss brands, domestic brands such as King, Fiyta, Rossini, etc. occupy a dominant position in the price range of watches under 1,000 yuan, and in the price range of 1,000 to 2,000 yuan, there are The figure of a few domestic brands, but more than 2,000 yuan, domestic watches will disappear.

According to the Shenzhen Watch and Watch Association, 57% of Chinese consumers now believe that the price of domestic watches should be between 300 and 1,000 yuan.

In fact, not domestic watches do not want to create "high-end", "luxury" brand image. According to the Beijing Watch Factory, Beijing Watch Factory has started a "Nirvana" and will strive to break into the high-end market. The Shanghai watch factory also plans to make a comeback and launch five new creative watches - "the old mess." Each model has a global limit of 100 and is only sold in Shanghai, Paris and New York. Another time-honored Tianjin "Seagull" brand has also launched a platinum shell tourbillon watch.

“Compared with Switzerland, the biggest difference between us is still in branding and accumulation.” According to the editor of the industry's senior watch magazine, the watch technology has been completed two to three hundred years ago, and there is no such great innovation. In the past 50 years, more accurate and cheap quartz watches have defeated mechanical watches, but in the early 1990s, mechanical watches regained market. Faced with this pattern, from a certain level, domestic brands must become international brands with global influence, and they are not short of stories. What is missing is packaging and marketing that match the times.

Once, as a declining aristocrat, the Vacheron Constantin family of watchmakers used the opportunity to create a wedding watch for Austrian Princess Xun. The product was successfully positioned as “Royal style, elegant and noble”. Its style characteristics have not changed for a hundred years, although this The composition of the organic fringe, but it also illustrates a problem, for the watch, to create a famous brand is not an overnight event, it needs to be precipitated, it takes time. Therefore, the old Chinese watch brand wants to create China's luxury brand, but it is by no means a day.